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White Salema Feeding, Ecuador, 1999

"Pacific swells push against Darwin Island, where white salema and black triggerfish feed beneath breaking waves. Here 20 years ago Jerry and I were intimidated by huge squadrons of sharks—hammerhead and the more aggressive Galápagos sharks. Now I see just one hammerhead nearby. The sharks too have been driven into deeper waters in search of prey, and when I'm down to 150 feet [46 meters] I see hundreds of them far beneath my fins, disappearing into a twilight sea."

—From "Galápagos Underwater," April 1999, National Geographic magazine

Photograph by David Doubilet